I Think My Staph is Poisoning Me . . . I Think My Giardia is eating me from the inside out . . .‏

(or: Everyone Uses Their Hand Eventually . . . )

Ah Nepal! What a kind culture, what a breathtaking place. A significant question was often exchanged between James and Ashley of, 'What the fuck are we doing here?'

As our time traveling together has ended, we look back upon the always captivating, usually random times we shared in Nepal and warmth fills our hearts as daal baaht and sweet tea often filled our bellies.

Our journey started with a Joyous hello to James as Ashley busted past the disconcerted, ineffective guards at the Kathmandu airport to a rare scene for Nepal - a wide open embrace as she jumped into his arms for an epic hug. Collecting fellow post-flight Westerners, James already had two friends in tow, plus Ashley had her San Francisco friend, Laura, making the cab ride from the airport a cosy and amusing one. (Imagine 6 people and 3 backpacks crammed into a car about the size of a VW! And not the bus.)

Ashley was already accustomed to the ensuing madness that is KathmanDONT after 10 days of tea drinking, volunteering, templeing (to temple?), and meeting interesting people. To James, it was an overwhelming sensory experience of sights, sounds, smells, and scenes. The next day, we were both ready to leave. We ventured up north, winding through and into the mountains, onward as a group of four (the soon to be aptly-named 'Wanker Bear' joining us), to the cool hillside village of Nagarkot, where a trance festival celebrated Shivaratri (Shiva's birthday). Unfortunately, Ashley's system was running in reverse, sometimes forward too fast, leaving her ill in the hotel as James, Laura, and Wanker Bear danced their faces off till sunrise. Ashley counted her blessings breathing fresh air as she enjoyed the display of stars in the night sky.

Upon leaving Nagarkot, we drifted back down to the Kathmandu valley to visit an 'ashram'. Ashley, ever wise, left after half a day due to a gut feeling that it was not where she needed to be, leaving James and Laura behind. After Ashley's departure, James had his own 'gut feeling', as he constantly found himself running off, yet again, to the squat toilet, giardia running amok. Two days later, all were reunited at the illustrious Pokhara as James and Laura finally managed to both come to their senses and health, able to make the knuckle-biting, bone wrenching 7-hour bus journey.

In Pokhara, we, ever the indecisive, traveled a wormhole of time. Dazed and Confused by a week unaccounted for, we weren't quite sure of what was done and couldn't quite seem to get to where we didn't know we wanted to be. Laura decided one afternoon to take on the endeavor of the 3 week Anapurna circuit trek, leaving the next morning. Happily alone, the decision was easily made to begin our own trek, destination: hot springs. The next morning, we embarked sometime after sunrise on an entertainingly unsuccessful busride, as James realizes two hours into it that he's forgotten his park pass for the Conservation area. Disgorged in Some(No)where Nepal, we returned by taxi to Pokhara, retreived said pass, hopped a taxi to the wrong bus station, walked the 2 miles to the other station, and got on another bus that stopped after a mile to be thrown ON to another, already full bus. So full, in fact, that we find ourself upon the roof, nestled in amongst the plastic cargo. We, ticketholders, seatpayers, sit uncomfortably through rain, sun, and cold as we listen ironically to the bleating of the goat who managed his own space inside the bus. An extra hour stop to change a flat with an amazingly bald spare, we finally began our trek as dusk settled in the mountains.

Over the next few days, we (Ashley's throbbing and pussing staph-infected toe and all) hiked straight up and straight down, six billion stone stairs in all, through villages of friendly smiles, magical hobbit-filled rhododendron forests and waterfalls, encountering breathtaking views of 26,000+ foot peaks. Tired and sore (toe still throbbing), two days were spent in Tatopani, enjoying good food and hotsprings before returning again to the vortex of Pokhara so Ashley can (finally) see a doctor to kill that pesky staph that had been slowly poisoning her for a month. Momentum rolling, our itch to do more lands us in a guide shop, to leave the next morning on a three day rafting trip down the Kali Gandaki. We find ourselves part of a hilarious group, representing Iran, Canada, Spain, Russia, Alaska, and of course the US and Nepal - 35 in total, madness ensuing down the graceful and amusing Gandaki. Our time was filled with laughter, comforts and thrills, accentuated by blue skies, star-speckled nights, and one short-lived thunderstorm. The nighttime drum rhythms of Nepali folk music and Iranian love songs, we felt deep gratitude for who and where we were (and are). An uncomfortable bus ride back to KathmanDONT brought us to the nighttime spectacle of the Boudnath Stupa, arising early in the morning to walk amongst the prayerful pilgrims, Tibetan Buddhists, juniper incense teasing our noses, the bell-shaped Stupa glowing in the morning sun.

The next morning, like that, we found ourselves back in Kathmandu, 24 hours to go, one spliff left. We are two Librans with no plan, no decision. Love fills our hearts as our arms are open to the world, we maintain faith in the Universe. It always provides.

Much love to you all. We miss you terribly. Much time was spent in the previous 4 weeks reminscing on the wonders of Burning Man and our magical group of friends we are proud to call family. We are so blessed to be a part of our country, our state, our city, and especially this beautiful community we find ourselves a part of in Bend . . . cuddle puddles and kisses aplenty when we return.

xoxoxoxox

Ashley n James